Gone silent

The once bustling Canadian customs community of Beaver Creek/Craig Medred photo

BEAVER CREEK, Yukon Territory, Canada – At 8 a.m. Tuesday, this once summer-busy chokepoint on the Alaska Highway between Canada and the 49th state looked a lot like the ghost town of Iditarod far to the north in Alaska’s Interior.

All that moved was a lone tanker truck that came, went and was gone quickly like the dog teams that pass through the once famous Alaska mining community during the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race.

Canada might have reopened its borders to U.S. citizens – or at least U.S. citizens showing proof of vaccination and a fresh, negative test for the pandemic disease COVID-19 – but there is no hint of any last-minute rush to visit The Last Frontier.

Then again, this corner of the Yukon has been dying for a long time. It is a victim of changing times and changing ways as was the region’s gold-rush boom more than a century ago.

Truck traffic that once flowed north along the Alaska Highway to supply the state’s Interior is almost all gone, the Alaska trucking business having shifted almost wholly to the George Parks Highway connecting Fairbanks to the now state-vital Port of Anchorage.

Meanwhile, the face of tourism has changed.

There was a time when motorists tackled the Alaska Highway as an adventure. They armored their vehicles with frontal screens to protect their windsheilds from flying rocks and battled a rough, gravel, snake of a road north for 1,200 miles to proudly claim an “I Drove the Alaska Highway” bumper sticker.

Today the road is paved for its entire length, and though much of the pavement north of Haines Junction beats up on a standard motor vehicle quite nicely, it is nowhere near primitive enough to challenge the adventure-seeking crowd.

On the other hand, it appears rough enough to deter plenty of others. You could bounce along the rough road for an hour, sometimes more, without encountering another vehicle this week.

A wandering grizzly bear, the only other life on the Alaska Highway/Craig Medred photo


That only began to change south of Haines Junction almost 200 miles south of the Canadian customs station here.

By Whitehorse, there was considerable traffic despite the pandemic, but it quickly thinned as you got away from the city and didn’t really increase that much until south of Watson Lake in the Yukon Territory.

The territorial campground there was near full at midweek, the nearby Laird Hotsprings overflowing. The campers were almost wholly Canadians, and the camping gear of choice was a motorhome.

Whitehorse would seem to have become the new endpoint for these campers.

Given that there is plenty of away-from-the-campsite adventure to be found there or even farther south, there is really no good reason to lash the dishes down, pad the breakables and push on farther north.

A Wednesday drive from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson, British Columbia was a little like a visit to Denali National Park and Preserve only with a nicely paved highway.

The scenery was spectacular and the wildlife plentiful.

There were wandering bison, both alone and in herds; elk; caribou with calves and more caribou with calves and more caribou with calves; deer; a black bear; and stone sheep, which appeared to have been conveniently lured to the roadside by Canadian salting of the roads in winter.

Stone sheep blocking the Alaska Highway/Craig Medred photo

Canadians in significant numbers appeared to be getting out to enjoy it all despite the pandemic.

The traffic on the roads was nothing like the madness of weekends on the Seward Highway running south from Alaska’s largest city to the Kenai Peninsula, but in the places where Canada’s incredibly expensive gas ($1.49 per liter, approximately $5.64 per gallon, and up) was available, there were usually vehicles waiting in line at the pump.

Gas availability in Canada is now largely limited to larger communities, the once common gas stations along the Alaska Highway long ago boarded up.

All that remains of many of them now are the rotting buildings. These businesses, too, were victims of changing times and changing ways.

They survived in a period when most automobiles could go only a couple hundred miles on a tank of gas, broke down with some regularity, and rode on tires prone to failure.

Gas, tire repairs and the towing of disabled vehicles formed the foundation for businesses that added restaurants and lodging as their profit centers.

When the foundation collopsed, however, most of those businesses died. The few left, like Ida’s Motel & Cafe here, are in small hub communities which now find themselves threatened not only by the changing times and changing ways but by the COVID-19 pandemic that has hammered tourism everywhere.

Even in Sweden, which controversially avoided lockdowns and masking, tourism has suffered, though not so much as elsewhere.

CORRECTION: Laird Hotsprings was misspelled in an earlier version of this story.


47 replies »

    • Buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo.

      Grammatically correct. But that’s a bison.

      • Thanks pete ! Or is it Peter? 😉 i will get up to date . Thanks!

  1. I live in Beaver Creek and am shocked you would use a seasonal hotel to showcase in this article. Did you check any facts about our community before making that decision. I manage one of the 2 places that managed through Covid to stay open all year long.

    • Rita: No one is happier than me that you’re hanging on in Beaver Creek. The story wasn’t a slight of your fine city. It was an observation on how much it has changed in these times. I’ve been through Beaver Creek many times. It is quieter now than when I came through on my initial journey to Alaska in ’73.

      I wish you luck. I’ve always found your town a friendly place.


    • We had vaccination and COVID-19 test records, but had not filled out the online entry form for Canada. The agent at Canadian customs was most helpful in getting that done. Entry was pretty much a breeze. It would be a great time for a bike ride from Beaver Creek to Whitehorse. There is basically no traffic north of Haines Junction, and not that much between there and Whitehorse with generally pretty good shoulders on the road as you probably know.

      Whitehorse itself is hectic, but the road quiets down not far out of town and remains quiet until approaching the other major cities along the route.

  3. 2,500 miles from Valdez-Seattle, had some great experiences, and few near misses. Never forget that drive. Yes, Laird Hot Springs is one of a kind. to stop on an early cold spring day and jump in that hot
    spring water! Oh Yeah!
    Have a great trip!

  4. Great story, but incredibly expensive gas? In May of 2014, the price of gas at Grand Forks, BC was $1.41/L and was as high as $1.56/L at Beaver Creek, YK. Glenallen, AK at that time was $4.36/Gal and gas in Eagle River was as high as $3.91/Gal. Some of us remember and know why it happened then. Now, not only gas supply is an issue, so is Co-Vid and decreased tourism. Not surprising.

  5. Love Liard but that’s closed too right?
    No shot for me and I want to road trip to the lower 48 this winter.

      • fasc•ism făsh′ĭz″əm►
        n. A system of government marked by centralization of authority under a dictator, a capitalist economy subject to stringent governmental controls, violent suppression of the opposition, and typically a policy of belligerent nationalism and racism.
        n. A political philosophy or movement based on or advocating such a system of government.

      • Thank you for the definition Bryan, now would you like to explain to Steve S why neither Canada nor the US is a fascist country? I assume, of course, that you are familiar with the use and meaning of a comma.

        I wish more people had a little perspective on what words mean, claiming that Canada or the US is a Fascist country is so far beyond ignorant to only be thought of as asinine. Our countries fought against Fascism not long ago, and to piss on that history is pathetic. Calling Canada and the US Fascist is only something that the obviously fascistic and completely incorrectly named antifa movement would come up with.

        It’s sad how willingly ignorant some people can be.

      • Steve-O, there seems to be a lot of “ism’s” in the direction our country is heading in – commun”ism”, social”ism”, Marx”ism”, rac”ism”, transgender”ism”, etc.. My head spins at the thought. I think Steve S point is when the government ignores laws, run by a dictator, fiat, by-passes rulings of the Supreme Court, pushes racial division, encourages black nationalism, makes up laws, get this: (I may be wrong but just my assumption)
        “A system of government marked by centralization of authority under a dictator, a capitalist economy subject to stringent governmental controls, violent suppression of the opposition, and typically a policy of belligerent nationalism and racism.”

      • Bryan, I agree. Fed board is appointment by President. Fed controls economy stringently. President issues decrees that bypass congress that effect all walks of life especially economic. Demonization and attack of the opposing party with weaponization of IRS , law enforcement, alphabet agencies, court systems – District attorneys, murder and protection of a murderer during protest ( violence) , excessive imprisonment of protesters, excessive jailed citizens in general ( most per capita any nation in world) military violence to get our way against other nations and the acceptance of violence. A current willingness to give up human rights during times of perceived crisis such as pandemics and protests. These are all known steps towards fascism.Brian and steve S are wise to be vigilant. We have a lot to loose . Vigilance and awareness are marks of competence in life . Empathy towards the rights of future people is a mark of quality human beings. Courage and awareness to confront the problems and not bury your head in the sand is a mark of mature rare men. It’s always easier to say everything is fine . Carry on . Let the next guy deal with it. Steve s is right our dollar is our known vote . Our true vote may have been negated . The fed degrades the vote by dollar every day. I love Canada and i love Canadians. They are a truly great people. Their government is not standing up for their human rights. Ours is not doing so great either. Facist? Not yet . Closing. Step by step.

      • But what really makes me cringe is when Democrats, Leftists, a corrupt media referring to us a “Democracy”..
        Couldn’t be further from the truth.

      • Re: “Our countries fought against Fascism not long ago, and to piss on that history is pathetic.”

        What’s been going on(for far too long politically) disgraces both countries history…..

      • Bryan,

        Let’s dissect this step by step so even the passive aggressive can understand…

        We have a limited centralized federal government…the Constitution sees to that. We can debate how limited but to claim we have a centralized government doesn’t pass the smell test, let alone one under a dictator.

        Who’s the dictator? The current president can’t tie his shoes. If anything we have a committee with a figurehead, not a dictator. The Supreme Court has issued numerous rulings against the committee…errrr president. We DO NOT have a dictator.

        Maybe we have different ideas as to what “violent suppression of the opposition” means, but neither Canada nor the US are engaged in anything that would be considered “violent suppression of the opposition”…look no further than what is currently happening in Afghanistan to see what “violent suppression of the opposition” is.

        While the current administration in the last seven months might be said to support belligerent racism, they sure as hell do not support belligerent nationalism…if anything they are anti-nationalism. Nationalism is kind of a key component of fascism.

        This is just the US part of the ill-informed comparison of Canada and the USA to a fascist country that only a person ignorant of history and facts could make. The Canadian part is almost a cut and paste version but involves poutine, more hockey, a lot more niceties, and way more hosers.

        Speaking of passive aggressive…that’s you DPR, it’s sad that you just can’t help but pussyfooting around. I get it, I say up you say down, I say the sky is blue you say it is red, you have a problem with me, that’s tough…deal with it. Sack up stop insulting those you disagree with and provide some type of actual intellectual argument to support your point of view…or keep doing what your doing, at least Steve Stine agrees with you…that’s worth something in some circle I suppose.

      • Steve o , that’s your paranoia talking. No one attacked you. Difference of opinion is not attack . Get help steve . You need it . Possibly medical. No one dislikes you or has any issues with you whatsoever. You just stick your neck way out and create something to discuss . I said nice things in this thread and even partially agreed with you . I told pete thank you for educating me . I should have already known the right words. I should have said i love bison. Amazing creatures snd tasty . I agreed with you and I said we were not facist yet . We do have various markers towards facism but it takes a big next step. Using the alphabet agency to claim various conservative and libertarian type people are like insurgents to unite the opposition in a lie is pushing the envelope. It pushes the ingredients needed for facism . Just because you don’t understand what is before your eyes doesn’t mean others dont . Some people thought the constitution said it was reasonable to have slaves . Others disagreed for the better . Some people thought women didn’t inherently have rights. Others disagreed for the better. Some people dont see facism rising its head. Others do and want to reduce the risk. Yah need to get off the horse where you think someone is against you . No one here has a problem with you especially me regardless if they agree or not and regardless if they needled you in the past . We like you steve even if the disagreements are heated. Don’t let paranoia over take your mind. Not everyone sees things the same . Its ok . Im sorry I stepped on your feelings. Chill dude . Enjoy yourself. Life to short to get your underwear / panties in a wad😉 Be cool 😎 steve o 💪

      • Steve-O, once again, I do find myself agreeing with you in the litteral sense. Forgive me for not rebuking several of your points. We can disagree on whether Biden, the “autopen” pushing “dictates” from handlers is considered a form of “dictatorship. Regardless, there is a storm coming and it is related to one of the “ism’s”. Shame you can’t see it through the litteral lens..

      • Bryan,

        Whether fascism is on the rise in Canada or the USA, to say something as ignorant as “Any dollar given to Canada is a dollar supporting Fascism…your money is your vote” is completely ridiculous. So if a guy spends one dollar fighting fascism in Canada, according Steve S that is supporting fascism…since “any dollar” means any dollar.

        I don’t see the US or Canada headed toward Fascism, oligarchy maybe, corporatocracy possibly, idiocracy absolutely. When words no longer have meaning (something the left has been working towards for years) then it does not matter what we say…look no further than antifa, they whole heartedly support fascism while claiming to fight it. Steve S has previously supported the antifa movement along with numerous other movements and countries who are less than a stones throw from fascism. I’m sorry that you don’t remember or can’t see that. Canada isn’t Fascist and any dollar spent in Canada doesn’t support fascism, to claim so waters down the meaning of the word.

      • DPR,
        Thanks for more of your passive aggressive nonsense. You probably don’t even realize you are doing it, even when called out for it, it is so ingrained in how you deal with people you disagree with. You can’t see it and refuse to face it, that’s sad, and I’m honestly sorry for you and your crutch. I thought pointing it out might help you learn and grow, but I now see you will never learn and grow you prefer to remain mired in the mud enjoying your mindless insults that somehow make you feel better.

      • Steve o, my nonsense was only passive aggressive? Dang it ! I was trying to live up to my history in a line of Dread Pirates! Guess im getting soft 😉( step away from the key board steve o – its all going to be ok) lots of people somewhere agree with you — youve got this . Just baaack up and shut her down for a few days. Deep breaths….. deeep breaths . Which goblet would you like to drink out of ? You pick 😉

      • Steve o, btw – i was actually really trying to be nice . I guess you just cant understand that part .

      • Steve-O, you bring up an interesting and correct point: “look no further than antifa, they whole heartedly support fascism while claiming to fight it.”. Let me even take that one step further and add Marxist/fascist BLM.
        Ok, so my assumption is we both can can agree that ANTIFA and BLM are fascists.. Wouldn’t you also agree that both are funded and supported by who? Democrats right? Not any run of the mill Democrats, but the VP Harris who setup a bail fund to support these fascists. Democrat govenors and mayor’s are not only supporting these fascists, but also releasing them without bail.
        So, forgive me if I am putting words in your mouth and forgive me for at least assuming the highest levels of our government supports fascists and Marxists. I mean, I can go on and on about Marxist/Socialist officials – Bernie, AOC, Omar, Talib, Van Jones, Obama’s Mentor Frankarshall Davis, yadda.
        Anyhow, you can see we are confused and and the lines blurred.

      • DPR,
        The way you represent yourself only reflects upon you. If you are ok as coming across as a passive aggressive person who resorts to juvenile personal attacks, well that’s on you. I was just trying to help you understand how that crutch limits you and your ability to share your views. I’ve never been offended or upset from the childish insults you level at those you disagree with, the fact that you revel in them and see them as a mark of distinction speaks volumes.

      • Steve o, might the kettle be calling the pot black ? (spoken like a guy who has no idea what facism is) – that qoate from you was directed to someone who managed to probably get through college and most likely can comprehend and read and score well on tests) ( I assume of course you are familiar with the meaning and use of a comma) – you said to a man who probably got through college or at least high school and travels all over the world dealing in finance and piloting planes (its sad how willingly ignorant some people can be) you said and directed to many educated high iq people who don’t happen to hold your views. The way you state such could be considered insulting. You are not attacking their idea with proof . You attack the person with a passive aggressive character smear .
        I could give volumes of examples where you nastily attack people like steve s who has chosen to give up replying to you, yet you still follow him around the threads poking and prodding. Really you do it anytime anyone has a different perspective than you . You make it personal rather than focusing on ideas . I will say i give allowance for your doubting. I have at times been an impolite so and so as you say. Yet im in good company- ( with you equally ) what i do know for certain is you cant understand the humor or you wouldn’t complain about it . Its lost on you . if you are not bothered by it then stop complaining. Focus on the ideas and discussion and stop doing personal attacks against those who dont hold your exact viewpoint. For you steve o , im going to be even nicer to other commentators and especially to you . Yet dont be surprised if i poke someone with me sword now and then 😉 “ as you wish steve o” perhaps I should change me name to daisy !

      • DPR,

        Thanks, it all makes sense now. You don’t understand what a personal attack is.

        Here’s an example of a personal attack: You’re too stupid to understand what a personal attack is, you should seek medical attention for how stupidit you are. See how I attacked you personally and not your understanding of an idea?

        Here’s an example of something that’s not a personal attack: Your understanding of what a personal attack is wrong. See how I attacked your understanding of an idea and not you personally?

        There’s a difference in attacking a person (that’s why it’s called a personal attack) and attacking a person’s ideas.

        Whether some one goes to college does not connote intelligence, let alone superior intelligence. Hell I went to college, if they let me in they will let anyone in!

        As far as the quotes that you “qoate[d]”. Steve S demonstrably does not understand what fascism is. Attacking his misunderstanding of what fascism is isn’t a personal attack, it’s an attack on the fact that he has no idea what fascism is. As far as him not responding to my posts, it’s not surprising because he is wrong more often than not. When I challenge his obviously incorrect information he has no rebuttal and no way to respond to support his incorrect view points, if he actually believed what he said is correct he would offer some kind of evidence to support his views when challenged.

        I know we’ve been over this before, but I hope that clears it up for you some.

      • Mr or Mrs steve o,
        Regarding if participating in college is an indicator of IQ level. There are many tests on the subject. I will present one . Averages For a specific test group of people between ages of 16-71 yrs old ( determination of IQ and relation to education)
        Some elementary education = 82.5
        Elementary grad = 90.8
        High school grad = 100
        College aprx 1-2 yrs = 107.3
        College graduate = 115.2
        The correlation does indicate involvement of college education correlates with intelligence or IQ . This potentially indicates your statement was inaccurate.
        Involvement in college indicates a 10% to 15% increase in iq beyond high school. Even more so when compared to grade school. Aprx 20-25% So i present that your statement that going to college does not connote intelligence was demonstrably false . College participation certainly shows a correlation towards intelligence.
        Now regarding personal attacks and whether Dpr understands them .
        A common definition of personal attack is “An abusive remark relating to someones person instead of providing evidence when examining another persons claims”
        Steve stine stated money given to Canada supports facism.
        Steve o said “ spoken like a guy who has no idea what facism is”
        This personal attack refers to the person steve s. ( steve s) a guy who has no idea what fascism is . Steve o never offers proof in his attack or evidence of any kind. It insults and demeans steve s as one of those guys who doesn’t know what facism is , while providing no supporting evidence. Then later goes on to implicate him in another statement as having willful ignorance without proof and without focusing on providing proof for a rebuttal to the statement by steve s in any form whatsoever. (It focuses on a guy-no supportive evidence) Then Leaves it at that . This at least partially indicates it meets the definition of personal attack as it refers to the guy and provides no supporting evidence. Therefore its highly likely it was a type of personal attack. Therefore its likely DpR understands the definition of personal attack. Which would mean ,steve o is incorrect when he said Dpr doesn’t understand personal attack.
        Further clarification to definition of personal attack is : someone making damaging remarks without evidence.
        There are other parts of your statement that I could discuss and provide further evidence of your inaccuracy but my time has become limited.
        I respectfully submit this for your review.
        Princess Buttercup

      • DPR,
        I thank you kindly for submitting your thoughts for my review. First off, as has been said here numerous times correlation is not causation…and it certainly isn’t connotation. I will agree that there are smart people that go to college and historically, by definition, with higher education that is the case. However just because a person goes to college that does not inherently make a person smart.

        And I would like to thank you again for the conversation and so brilliantly displaying how you do not understand what a personal attack is. I wouldn’t say that your quoted definition of a personal attack is common at all, in fact when I googled and tried other search engines what you claim to be a common definition “An abusive remark relating to someones person instead of providing evidence when examining another persons claims” your quote is literally the only thing that shows up…as in nothing else besides what you wrote in quotes, that doesn’t seem like it’s very common to me. However an ad hominem attack or personal attack it actually commonly understood to occur when someone refutes another’s ideas by attacking the person rather than the ideas. So when I said “Spoken like a guy who has no idea what Fascism is” you can clearly see I was talking about the incorrect understanding of the idea of what fascism and I was not attacking Steve…I did not attack Steve’s person but his misunderstanding of what his idea of fascism is.

      • Steve o,
        High end college harvard mit only accept high end sat scores. Around 1400 or better .
        Mid range college/ public colleges liberal art ect accept around 950 .
        Some state colleges accept lower i think and community colleges accept who ever can sign up for courses but to get pasing grades to complete college you will need reasonable iq. Completing a year or two or graduating selects out those with low iq and poor work ethic. Therefore college is indicative/ correlates with above average iq . A low sat score of 950 is indicative of average IQ of around 100 . 1500-1600 would predict a possible 160 iq score though not guaranteed ( equated by some who may be accurate or not) sat tends to reduce low iq college entrance but mostly the need to get passing grades reduces low iq participants. So saying correlation is not causation does not apply here . You specifically said -wether some one goes to college does not connote intelligence. Well due to sat and grade requirements your preposition is mostly wrong except a few outliers . Is being 99% incorrect the definition of wrong? Thats for you to decide. Separately i do agree it doesn’t mean as you basically said – exceptional iq as thsts undefined and broad though harvard mit entrace requiremets of 1400 aprx could be considered exceptional iq .
        Now as to your personal attack discussion- where you make the mistake is thinking ad hominem is equated with personal attack. You use ad hominem to define personal attack when in fact its a subset of personal attack. Personal attacks are very broad category. A primary definor of personal attack is a statement that undermines a persons standing without proof . That doesn’t focus on providing proof regarding the discussion at hand. Your attack of steve s falls distinctly in that category but not so much ad hominem though there is elements of that as well because you put him in the grouping of despicable people who don’t understand the meaning of facism and are willingly ignorant yet you provide no proof. And dont focus specifically on the topic of what facism is , instead you focus on steve s ignorance/ or group him with ignorance yet provide no proof. Therefore you are wrong 100% your attack was personal.
        Now interestingly personal attack can be even broader than this common understanding of it . Technically a personal attack can mean any attack directed at a person with intent to undermine or damage. Even for the greater good such when a reporter or political opponent releases damning facts to the public about the others wrong doing. In short Steve o , I understand quite well what a personal attack is . You were wrong to publicly say otherwise. Yet i will give you something thats very important. That you were very right on we should try and refrain from personal attack as much as possible. Though it has its place.
        Cambridge dictionary- attack -to criticize someone strongly.
        Webster’s- personal- relating to a particular person
        See also wiktonary and others for personal attack. Evidence is all over .
        Wikipedia does a poor job as its community sourced and not base definitions.

      • I think the most basic understanding/ definition of personal attack is any targeted or directed attack that undermines standing of a specific person or harms them in any way not limited to physical. Pretty broad yes but thats the best most unmoved required static definer.
        ad hominem and others are subsets with their own riding definers / clarifiers .

      • Oh , I should reiterate.
        I mostly agree with your premise Canada is not yet . Facist . That saying every dollar spent in Canada supports facism is over the top . To be more accurate A person could say it’s likely a small percentage of every dollar spent supports facism in Canada. Mostly – a fractional part of the the tax money. How much ? Unknown. Canada has done some weird stuff lately. Civil rights infringements. Heavy involvement in contol of buisness. Facism? Thats a stretch . Canadians prefer peace . Been a loyal aly and Freind. Deserve massive respect. America is far closer due to our acceptance and penchant for violence and control of other I understand your base premise. I technically agree . Isn’t that kind of funny?

      • I think you would have been more accurate if you had focused on the fact that innumerable very high iq people don’t even go to or finish college. A true provable fact . Using the concept that they let anyone in isn’t an accurate representation of the iq required for college. For your statement to be true you would have to focus on the rare outliers . But whatever 👍you the man or woman. Stay boss steve o 😎. Are you a woman? Just curious?

      • DPR,
        Don’t take this as a personal attack, but I wish I could give you a hug. It sure seems like you might need one…

        You literally made up a statement to support your viewpoint, put it in quotes and said that it was a common definition. It’s not, and the only instance of the quote you made up in the entirety of the internet is your use of it. Now you are claiming that I put Steve S “in the grouping of despicable people who don’t understand the meaning of facism”…I never said he was despicable, nor did I say that the group of people who do not understand what fascism is are despicable, that was all you. People who throw around the term fascism that do not understand the term are ignorant as to what it means. That’s not an insult or a personal attack, it just means they don’t know or they are uninformed. Being willfully ignorant means that a choice was made to remain uninformed, Steve S has chosen to remain ignorant as to what fascism is and continues to use the term incorrectly. Pointing that out is not a personal attack…unless of course any disagreement ever is a personal attack as you’ve suggested.

        If you still need more help understanding what is and isn’t a personal attack I can provide some links that will probably do a better job explaining what they are and what they aren’t, since obviously I am horrible at explaining it to you.

      • O, hugs – aaack , kryptonite . You win this battle with your concealed weapon! When i recover i will battle you again! Gaaaasp ! I didn’t make it up — gaaasp, you will see — choke choke 😉

  6. Great story, photos and trip, Craig. You wrote “the nearby Haird Hotsprings ..” but you probably meant Liard Hotsprings, where a black bear killed and injured some people back a ways. Barrie G.

      • oh crap. i meant Laird. finally, way too late, getting some time to spend back on the computer.

        the U-Haul broke down in the middle of Idaho because someone in Anchorage forgot to PUT THE CAP ON THE COOLANT when they serviced it. we found the cap on the apron hood after the truck overheated.

        luckily, i got it shut down before it heated up enough to seize.

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